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The 1619   Project


          Domino Sugar’s                                            bringing sugar-cane stalks   with him       people from Africa; sugar from the

                                                                    from the Spanish Canary Islands. In
                                                                                                 West Indies and Brazil; money and


                                                                    Europe at that time, refined sugar     manufactures from Europe,’’ writes
          Chalmette                                                 was a luxury product, the back ­     the Harvard historian   Walter John­
                                     Refinery

                                                                    breaking toil and dangerous labor
                                                                                                 son in his 1999 book, ‘‘Soul by Soul:


                                                                    required in its manufacture an     Life Inside the   Antebellum Slave

          in Arabi,                                                 insuperable barrier to production       Market.’’ ‘‘People were traded along
                                   La.,

                                                                                                 the bottom of the triangle; profits

                                                                    in anything approaching bulk. It

                                                                    seems reasonable to imagine that it     would stick at the top.’’

                                                                    might have remained so if it   weren’t     Before French   Jesuit priests plant­


                                                                    for the establishment of an enor ­  ed the first cane stalk near Baronne


                                                                    mous market in enslaved laborers     Street in New Orleans in 1751, sugar
                                                                    who had no   way to opt out of the     was already a huge moneymaker in
                                                                    treacherous work.            British New   York. By the 1720s, one



                                                                                                 of every two ships in the city’s port


                                                                    For thousands of   years, cane was a     was either arriving from or   heading
                                                                    heavy and unwieldy crop that had     to the Caribbean, importing sugar

                                                                    to be cut by hand and immediately     and enslaved people and exporting



                                                                    ground to release the juice inside,       flour, meat and shipbuilding sup­



                                                                    lest it spoil   within a day or two. Even     plies.   The trade was so lucrative
                                                                    before harvest time, rows had to be   that Wall Street’s most impressive


                                                                    dug, stalks planted and plentiful     buildings   were Trinity Church at

                                                                    wood chopped as fuel for   boiling the     one end, facing the Hudson River,


                                                                    liquid and reducing it to crystals and     and the five-story sugar   warehouses



                                                                    molasses. From the earliest traces of     on the other, close to the East River




                                                                    cane domestication on the Pacific   and near the busy   slave market. New

                                                                    island of New Guinea 10,000   years     York’s enslaved population reached
                                                                    ago to its island-hopping advance     20 percent, prompting the New  York








          sits on the edge of the mighty     tons imported each   year. Americans     to ancient India in 350 B.C., sugar     General Assembly in 1730 to issue a


          Mississippi River, about five miles     consume as much as 77.1 pounds     was locally consumed and    very     consolidated slave code, making it


          east by   way of the river’s bend from     of sugar and related sweeteners     labor-intensive. It remained little     ‘‘unlawful for above three slaves’’ to

          the French Quarter, and less than a     per   person per year, according to     more than an exotic spice, medicinal     meet on their own, and authorizing




          mile down from the Lower Ninth     United States Department of   Agri ­  glaze or sweetener for elite palates.     ‘‘each town’’ to employ ‘‘a common



          Ward,   where Hurricane Katrina     culture data.   That’s nearly twice the       It was the introduction of sugar     whipper for their slaves.’’
          and the failed levees destroyed so   limit the department recommends,     slavery    in the New  World that     In 1795, Étienne de Boré, a New




          many black lives. It is North   Ameri ­  based on a 2,000-calorie diet.   changed everything. ‘‘The true   Age     Orleans sugar planter, granulated









          ca’s largest sugar refinery, making     Sugar   has been linked in the Unit­  of Sugar had begun — and it   was     the first sugar crystals in the Loui ­

          nearly two billion pounds of sugar     ed States to diabetes, obesity and     doing more to reshape the world     siana   Territory. With the advent of


          and sugar products annually.   Those     cancer. If it is killing all of us, it is     than any ruler, empire or   war had     sugar processing locally, sugar plan­






          ubiquitous    four-pound yellow  killing black people faster. Over the     ever done,’’ Marc   Aronson and Mari ­  tations exploded up and down both




          paper   bags emblazoned with the     last 30   years, the rate of Americans     na Budhos write in their 2010 book,     banks of the Mississippi River.   All
          company logo are produced here     who are obese or   overweight grew     ‘‘Sugar   Changed the World.’’ Over     of this   was possible because of the





          at a rate of 120 bags a minute, 24     27 percent among all adults, to 71     the four centuries that followed     abundantly rich alluvial soil, com­







          hours a day, seven days a   week     percent from 56 percent, according     Columbus’s arrival, on the main­  bined   with the technical mastery of


          during operating season.     to the Centers for Disease Control,     lands of Central and South   Ameri ­  seasoned French and Spanish plant­



            The United States makes about     with African-Americans   overrep­  ca in Mexico, Guyana and Brazil as     ers from around the cane-growing





          nine million tons of sugar annual ­  resented in the national figures.     well as on the sugar islands of the     basin of the Gulf and the Caribbean

          ly, ranking it sixth in global pro­  During the same period, diabetes     West Indies — Cuba, Barbados and     — and because of the toil of thou­



          duction.   The United States sugar     rates overall nearly tripled.   Among     Jamaica, among others — countless     sands of enslaved people. More


          industry   receives as much as $4     black non-Hispanic   women, they     indigenous lives   were destroyed     French planters and their   enslaved



          billion in annual subsidies in the     are nearly double those of   white     and nearly     11 million Africans were     expert sugar   workers poured into


          form of price supports, guaranteed     non-Hispanic   women, and one and     enslaved, just counting those   who     Louisiana   as Toussaint L’Ouverture




          crop loans, tariffs and regulated     a half times higher for black   men     survived the Middle Passage.     and Jean-Jacques Dessalines led a


          imports of foreign sugar,   which by     than white   men.     ‘‘White gold’’ drove trade in goods     successful revolution to secure Hai ­




          some estimates is about half the     None of this — the extraordinary     and people, fueled the wealth of     ti's independence from France.

          price per pound of domestic sugar.     mass commodification of sugar, its     European nations and, for the British     Within five decades, Louisiana










          Louisiana’s sugar-cane industry   is by     economic might and outsize impact     in particular, shored up the financing     planters   were producing a quarter





          itself   worth $3 billion, generating an   on the American diet and health     —   of their North American colonies.     of the   world’s cane-sugar supply.

          estimated 16,400 jobs.       was in any   way foreordained, or     ‘‘There was direct trade among the     During her antebellum reign, Queen

               A vast majority of that domestic     even predictable,   when Christopher     colonies and between the colonies     Sugar bested King Cotton locally,



          sugar stays in this country,   with     Columbus made his second voyage     and Europe, but much of the   Atlan­  making Louisiana the second-richest







          an additional two to three million     across the   Atlantic Ocean in 1493,     tic trade was triangular: enslaved     state in per capita   wealth. According
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