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Domino Sugar’s bringing sugar-cane stalks with him people from Africa; sugar from the
from the Spanish Canary Islands. In
West Indies and Brazil; money and
Europe at that time, refined sugar manufactures from Europe,’’ writes
Chalmette was a luxury product, the back the Harvard historian Walter John
Refinery
breaking toil and dangerous labor
son in his 1999 book, ‘‘Soul by Soul:
required in its manufacture an Life Inside the Antebellum Slave
in Arabi, insuperable barrier to production Market.’’ ‘‘People were traded along
La.,
the bottom of the triangle; profits
in anything approaching bulk. It
seems reasonable to imagine that it would stick at the top.’’
might have remained so if it weren’t Before French Jesuit priests plant
for the establishment of an enor ed the first cane stalk near Baronne
mous market in enslaved laborers Street in New Orleans in 1751, sugar
who had no way to opt out of the was already a huge moneymaker in
treacherous work. British New York. By the 1720s, one
of every two ships in the city’s port
For thousands of years, cane was a was either arriving from or heading
heavy and unwieldy crop that had to the Caribbean, importing sugar
to be cut by hand and immediately and enslaved people and exporting
ground to release the juice inside, flour, meat and shipbuilding sup
lest it spoil within a day or two. Even plies. The trade was so lucrative
before harvest time, rows had to be that Wall Street’s most impressive
dug, stalks planted and plentiful buildings were Trinity Church at
wood chopped as fuel for boiling the one end, facing the Hudson River,
liquid and reducing it to crystals and and the five-story sugar warehouses
molasses. From the earliest traces of on the other, close to the East River
cane domestication on the Pacific and near the busy slave market. New
island of New Guinea 10,000 years York’s enslaved population reached
ago to its island-hopping advance 20 percent, prompting the New York
sits on the edge of the mighty tons imported each year. Americans to ancient India in 350 B.C., sugar General Assembly in 1730 to issue a
Mississippi River, about five miles consume as much as 77.1 pounds was locally consumed and very consolidated slave code, making it
east by way of the river’s bend from of sugar and related sweeteners labor-intensive. It remained little ‘‘unlawful for above three slaves’’ to
the French Quarter, and less than a per person per year, according to more than an exotic spice, medicinal meet on their own, and authorizing
mile down from the Lower Ninth United States Department of Agri glaze or sweetener for elite palates. ‘‘each town’’ to employ ‘‘a common
Ward, where Hurricane Katrina culture data. That’s nearly twice the It was the introduction of sugar whipper for their slaves.’’
and the failed levees destroyed so limit the department recommends, slavery in the New World that In 1795, Étienne de Boré, a New
many black lives. It is North Ameri based on a 2,000-calorie diet. changed everything. ‘‘The true Age Orleans sugar planter, granulated
ca’s largest sugar refinery, making Sugar has been linked in the Unit of Sugar had begun — and it was the first sugar crystals in the Loui
nearly two billion pounds of sugar ed States to diabetes, obesity and doing more to reshape the world siana Territory. With the advent of
and sugar products annually. Those cancer. If it is killing all of us, it is than any ruler, empire or war had sugar processing locally, sugar plan
ubiquitous four-pound yellow killing black people faster. Over the ever done,’’ Marc Aronson and Mari tations exploded up and down both
paper bags emblazoned with the last 30 years, the rate of Americans na Budhos write in their 2010 book, banks of the Mississippi River. All
company logo are produced here who are obese or overweight grew ‘‘Sugar Changed the World.’’ Over of this was possible because of the
at a rate of 120 bags a minute, 24 27 percent among all adults, to 71 the four centuries that followed abundantly rich alluvial soil, com
hours a day, seven days a week percent from 56 percent, according Columbus’s arrival, on the main bined with the technical mastery of
during operating season. to the Centers for Disease Control, lands of Central and South Ameri seasoned French and Spanish plant
The United States makes about with African-Americans overrep ca in Mexico, Guyana and Brazil as ers from around the cane-growing
nine million tons of sugar annual resented in the national figures. well as on the sugar islands of the basin of the Gulf and the Caribbean
ly, ranking it sixth in global pro During the same period, diabetes West Indies — Cuba, Barbados and — and because of the toil of thou
duction. The United States sugar rates overall nearly tripled. Among Jamaica, among others — countless sands of enslaved people. More
industry receives as much as $4 black non-Hispanic women, they indigenous lives were destroyed French planters and their enslaved
billion in annual subsidies in the are nearly double those of white and nearly 11 million Africans were expert sugar workers poured into
form of price supports, guaranteed non-Hispanic women, and one and enslaved, just counting those who Louisiana as Toussaint L’Ouverture
crop loans, tariffs and regulated a half times higher for black men survived the Middle Passage. and Jean-Jacques Dessalines led a
imports of foreign sugar, which by than white men. ‘‘White gold’’ drove trade in goods successful revolution to secure Hai
some estimates is about half the None of this — the extraordinary and people, fueled the wealth of ti's independence from France.
price per pound of domestic sugar. mass commodification of sugar, its European nations and, for the British Within five decades, Louisiana
Louisiana’s sugar-cane industry is by economic might and outsize impact in particular, shored up the financing planters were producing a quarter
itself worth $3 billion, generating an on the American diet and health — of their North American colonies. of the world’s cane-sugar supply.
estimated 16,400 jobs. was in any way foreordained, or ‘‘There was direct trade among the During her antebellum reign, Queen
A vast majority of that domestic even predictable, when Christopher colonies and between the colonies Sugar bested King Cotton locally,
sugar stays in this country, with Columbus made his second voyage and Europe, but much of the Atlan making Louisiana the second-richest
an additional two to three million across the Atlantic Ocean in 1493, tic trade was triangular: enslaved state in per capita wealth. According
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